Frequently Asked Questions

1. Q:  Why use a wet/dry filter?

    A:  A wet/dry filter is a very efficient means of removing toxic chemicals that result from   the natural break down of waste in the water.  Thus wet/dry filters provide 'chemical filtration.'  Mechanical filters (e.g. canister filters) are filters that remove the actual debris and waste from the water.  And although contained in the filter, the debris and waste are still in contact with your aquarium's water and begin to break down into chemicals that are toxic to your aquarium's inhabitants.

2. Q:  Why buy a Skylab wet/dry filter?

    A:  For one, our filters cost way less than the competitors'.  If you do a bio-media capacity/dollar comparison, you'll see how inexpensive our filters really are!  Secondly, we keep our filters simple, efficient, and to the point.  Our filters are very simple to install and don't have any confusing gadgets or devices.  We've designed our filters to use the maximum amount of space for bio-media, which is the whole purpose of a wet/dry filter.  Third, our filters are made of glass, so they do not warp like acrylic.  Lastly, I provide online support with quick responses to your questions.  I really pride myself because of this.  Nothing is more irritating than trying to get information from an online business and not getting a response until a week later, or never at all!!  We all have questions that we need the answers to NOW!!

3. Q:  How does a wet/dry filter work?

    A:  After a wet/dry filter is hooked up to your aquarium and has water flowing through it, helpful bacteria naturally start to colonized on the bio-media in the filter.  These bacteria break down the chemicals in the water from decaying waste.  There are different types of bio-media (e.g. bio-balls) and all are designed to have a high surface area to volume ratio.  The idea is to provide as much surface area as possible in a given space for the bacteria to colonize on.  These bacteria are aerobic (require oxygen) and thus water is only allowed to trickle over the bio-media; submerging the bio-media completely with water would kill the bacteria.  So, in short, it is the bacteria that are doing the work of the wet/dry filter.

4. Q:  What size wet/dry filter should I get for my aquarium?

    A:  A good rule of thumb is to get a wet/dry filter that is rated for an aquarium twice the size of the aquarium you will use it for.  I've always been a filtration fanatic, and if you're going to go the extra mile and spend the money for a wet/dry, you might as well do it right and not use a wet/dry that may be too small for your aquarium's bio-load.  A side note here:  With most other brands of wet/dry filters, you see a huge increase in price as you go from their smaller models to their larger ones.  All of our wet/dry filters are under $200, and all cost within $60 of each other.  So getting a larger filter from us will not set you back as it will from other places.

5. Q:  How do I stop the 'slurping' noise that my overflow box is making?

   A:  That 'slurping' noise is made by the water gushing down the drain pipe to the wet/dry filter, and it can be quite loud.  There are different ways of handling this.  The method I prefer is to place a ball valve in-line between the wet/dry filter and the drain.  The ball valve can be used to create just enough back pressure to cause the water level to slightly rise in the overflow box.  Once the water level rises just enough to create a small water column, you'll no longer be able to hear the water gushing down the drain.  This is why all of my filters include a ball valve.  I've also heard people say that by placing a piece of air line tubing down into the drain to allow the air to escape will stop the slurping noise. 

6. Q:  How do I install my filter?

   A:  I have two different pages dedicated to this topic:  Setting Up Your Filter, and Starting From Scratch.  Detailed explanations and photos help describe the installation process, which is just a matter of some very simple plumbing that anyone can do.

7. Q:  What kind of maintenance does a wet/dry filter require?

   A:  Very little to none.  A pre-filter of some sort must be used to keep debris/waste from reaching the wet/dry filter.  Debris and waste that do reach the wet/dry filter and accumulate can cause spikes in nitrite/nitrate levels.  This is why some people think that wet/dry filters can cause these spikes to occur.  If set up properly with a pre-filter, however, this won't happen.  However, if your wet/dry filter does need to be washed out, do so with water from the aquarium and don't wash all of the bio-media at the same time so that you don't destroy all of the bacteria that have colonized on the bio-media.

8. Q:  What flow rate should my wet/dry filter have?

    A:  Your wet/dry filter should circulate around 5 times the volume of your aquarium per hour.  So for a 100 gallon tank, the water pump on your wet/dry filter should be able to pump around 500 gallons per hour.  Make sure you don't get a water pump that exceeds the flow rates of your wet/dry filter and pre-filter.  Or, put another way, make sure your wet/dry filter and pre-filter can handle the flow rate needed.

9. Q:  What is an overflow box and why do I need one?

     A:  An overflow box is a box inside the aquarium that water flows over the top of and down to a drain where it flows to a sump or wet/dry filter.  The top of the box has slits in it which the water flows through, so as the water pump in the wet/dry pumps water back into the aquarium, the water level rises and begins to fall through the slits.  An equilibrium is reached such that the amount of water being pumped into the tank equals the amount of water that rises and falls into the overflow.  Because the water must fall in through the top of the box, in the event that the water pump fails, the water level in the aquarium will only be able to drop to the bottom of the slits at the top of the overflow.  Thus the tank won't be drained of its contents, and your floor won't get flooded!  Skimming water at the water's surface also prevents a protein film from developing, resulting in better gas exchange at the air/water interface.

10. Q:  What are the advantages of an internal overflow box over the hang-on type?

      A:  There is actually a second type of overflow box that hangs on the back of the aquarium.  It siphons water from a surface skimmer box inside the tank to another box with a drain that hangs outside the tank.  The biggest advantage that an internal overflow box has is that it merely relies upon gravity to work.  Hang-on overflows rely upon a siphon, which can be lost frequently, to work.  Because a deeper water column can be established in an internal overflow (creating more water pressure at the bulkhead), higher flow rates can be accomplished.  Many people with hang-on overflows have trouble with the overflow keeping up with the water pump and end up having to restrict the water pump or buying another overflow.  Cost is another advantage.  You'd have to buy a REALLY big internal overflow for it to cost as much as one of the hang-on types.  Internal overflows also have more space to function as a pre-filter.  A sponge should be used to filter the water before it drains to the wet/dry so that debris doesn't accumulate there.

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